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Why Hair Sticks Out at the Sides

Learn why the sides of a haircut can flare outward and how length, weight and connection affect the shape. Plan a more manageable cut with City Barbers.

By City Barbers2 min read5 sections

A black leather barber chair under string lights
In this article
  1. Identify the section that is expanding
  2. Compare shorter and longer approaches
  3. Preserve the upper connection
  4. Check how the hair dries
  5. Bring a clear maintenance goal

The short answer

Hair at the sides can project outward because of its growth direction, density or current length. A section may be too short to bend down but long enough to stand away from the head. Extra weight near the top-to-side connection can also create a wider outline.

The solution depends on where the flare begins. Taking the entire side shorter without assessing that point can change more of the haircut than necessary.

Identify the section that is expanding

Look at the temples, above the ears and the ridge where the top meets the sides. Does the hair stand directly from the roots, or does a longer upper section sit on top of shorter hair like a shelf?

Take a side photograph before styling the area flat. That gives your barber a clear starting point and helps distinguish growth direction from the haircut’s connection.

Compare shorter and longer approaches

A closer side can reduce the projecting length. Leaving enough hair to bend or lie down may also work. The awkward stage between those options is often what feels difficult.

Choose based on the look you want. If you prefer a fuller classic shape, repeatedly requesting a tighter fade may solve the immediate width problem while moving you away from your preferred haircut.

Preserve the upper connection

The top and sides should be discussed together. Removing too much from below a long top can increase the visible overhang. Reducing the correct area of weight may create a smoother silhouette without taking every section shorter.

At the chair

Explain whether the flare appears immediately after a haircut or only as it grows. That timing can help identify which part of the shape needs adjustment.

Check how the hair dries

Hair that dries pushed upward or outward may keep that position. Ask your barber to demonstrate a simple downward or backward direction if it suits the cut. Use comfortable heat and follow your dryer’s instructions.

More product is not always the answer. A thick layer may flatten the hair temporarily while leaving an appearance or feel you dislike.

Related guideHow to Plan a Haircut Around a Double CrownRead the guide

Bring a clear maintenance goal

If the sides become difficult well before the top needs cutting, say so. You may need a different retained length, a revised connection or a more targeted maintenance plan.

At City Barbers in Salt Lake City, explain the exact area that sticks out and the fullness you want to keep. That allows the haircut to address the shape instead of treating every difficult side as a request for a shorter fade.

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